1960s Makeup

From Cat Eyes to Cut Creases: 1960s Makeup That Defined a Generation

Introduction

The 1960s represented a seismic shift in beauty standards and practices that forever altered the landscape of cosmetics. During this revolutionary decade, makeup transformed from a tool of conventional beautification to a powerful medium of self-expression and cultural identity. As hemlines rose and social norms evolved, cosmetic applications became bolder, more graphic, and increasingly symbolic of broader societal changes.

Young women rejected the sophisticated yet restrained makeup of the 1950s in favor of dramatic eyes, pale lips, and experimental techniques that announced their generational rebellion. This comprehensive exploration delves into the iconic trends, influential figures, technical innovations, and lasting legacy of 1960s makeup—an era whose creative impact continues to reverberate through contemporary beauty culture more than half a century later.

The Iconic Twiggy Look: Exaggerated Lashes and Graphic Lines

The rise of Lesley Hornby, better known as Twiggy, revolutionized beauty standards in the 1960s. At just 16 years old, her childlike figure and distinctive makeup look catapulted her to international fame after being named “The Face of 1966” by the Daily Express. Her signature style—characterized by heavily-lined eyes, drawn-on lower lashes, and a pale lip—became the defining aesthetic that countless women sought to emulate throughout the decade.

The technical execution of the Twiggy look required precision and specific products that became bestsellers of the era. The look began with a matte, porcelain-like base that contrasted dramatically with the bold eye makeup. False eyelashes saw unprecedented popularity, with sales increasing by over 80% between 1964 and 1968, according to cosmetic industry reports of the time. The application technique involved multiple coats of mascara on the upper lashes and precisely drawn lines below the eye to create the illusion of lengthy, doll-like lower lashes.

The cultural impact of this look extended beyond mere aesthetics and reflected the youthful rebellion of the era. The exaggerated, wide-eyed appearance symbolized innocence combined with boldness—a perfect visual metaphor for the changing role of women in society. This childlike yet sophisticated style marked a significant departure from the more mature, sophisticated makeup of the 1950s, signaling the beginning of a youth-led cultural revolution in beauty.

The Cultural Shift: How the 1960s Changed Beauty Standards

The 1960s witnessed a monumental shift in beauty standards that directly challenged the sophisticated, mature aesthetic of the previous decade. This transformation wasn’t merely cosmetic but reflected deeper societal changes occurring across Western culture. The post-war economic boom created a flourishing youth market with unprecedented spending power, allowing young people to reject traditional standards and create their own beauty ideals for the first time in history. Beauty became increasingly democratized, moving away from the exclusive domain of the wealthy and socially elite.

The political landscape fundamentally reshaped beauty ideals during this transformative decade. The civil rights movement, women’s liberation, and anti-war protests fostered an environment where conventional beauty standards could be questioned and reimagined. Young women began expressing their political identities through their appearance, with makeup becoming a form of personal rebellion. According to a 1968 Gallup poll, over 65% of women under 25 reported using makeup as a form of self-expression rather than to please others—a dramatic shift from just a decade earlier.

Media representation played a crucial role in disseminating these new beauty standards worldwide. Fashion magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar showcased models with increasingly youthful appearances, while photographers like David Bailey and Richard Avedon popularized a new aesthetic that celebrated unconventional beauty. The introduction of color television in the early 1960s allowed makeup trends to spread more rapidly than ever before, with variety shows and music programs becoming unexpected beauty influencers of their time.

The Cat Eye Evolution: From Subtle to Statement

The cat eye eyeliner technique, while not invented in the 1960s, underwent a dramatic transformation that defined the decade’s aesthetic revolution. Originally popularized in the 1950s by icons like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, the subtle winged liner evolved into a bolder, more graphic statement. Historical beauty records show that by 1964, eyeliner sales had increased by 75% compared to 1959 figures, with liquid formulations becoming the fastest-growing segment in eye cosmetics. This shift marked the beginning of the eye-focused makeup that would characterize the entire decade.

Technical innovations revolutionized how the cat eye was created and worn by everyday women. The introduction of felt-tip liquid liners by Max Factor in 1963 made precise application more accessible, while innovations in formulation improved wear time from approximately 4 hours to 8+ hours according to consumer testing publications of the era. The application technique changed too, with the wing extending further outward and upward than in previous years. Beauty magazines began publishing step-by-step tutorials, with Glamour’s June 1965 issue dedicating six pages to different cat eye variations and appropriate occasions for each style.

The cultural significance of the cat eye transcended mere fashion to become a symbol of feminine boldness. Prominent figures like model Jean Shrimpton and actress Sophia Loren showcased variations of the dramatic cat eye that suited different eye shapes, democratizing the trend across facial features. What began as a technique primarily associated with evening makeup became appropriate for daytime wear, reflecting broader changes in women’s social roles. The cat eye served as a visual declaration of the new feminine ideal: striking, unapologetic, and impossible to ignore.

Cut Crease Techniques: The Defining Eye Makeup Trend

The cut crease—a technique that defines the eye socket with a precise line that “cuts” across the crease—emerged as one of the most technically sophisticated makeup innovations of the 1960s. This revolutionary approach to eye makeup application created a dramatic, sculptural effect that transformed how women emphasized their eyes. According to beauty historian Madeleine Marsh, this technique first gained popularity in professional makeup circles around 1963 before entering mainstream beauty culture by 1965, when instructional features began appearing in publications like Seventeen and Cosmopolitan.

The execution of the perfect cut crease required specific tools and techniques that shaped the cosmetic industry. Makeup artists like Way Bandy pioneered using multiple shadow textures—typically matte shades for the crease and shimmering formulations for the lid—establishing a practice that remains standard in modern eye makeup application. The technique demanded precision brushes smaller than those previously available to consumers. Beauty brands responded to this need, with brush sales increasing 45% between 1964-1967 according to industry reports, as women sought the tools needed to achieve this complex look at home.

Cultural icons played a vital role in popularizing this distinctive eye makeup style. British model Jean Shrimpton frequently showcased the cut crease in fashion spreads photographed by David Bailey, while American actress Sharon Tate appeared wearing the dramatic eye technique in multiple films, most notably in 1966’s “The Fearless Vampire Killers.” The cut crease represented the era’s fascination with artificial enhancement and sculptural transformation—a visual expression of the artistic movements influencing everything from architecture to fashion during this experimental decade.

Pale Lips and Nude Tones: The 1960s Lip Revolution

The 1960s witnessed a dramatic reversal in lip cosmetic trends, with bright reds and corals of the 1950s giving way to pale, matte formulations that deliberately downplayed the mouth. This shift represented more than just a pendulum swing in fashion—it fundamentally rebalanced facial focus from lips to eyes. Industry sales figures from cosmetic giant Revlon showed lipstick sales declining by 14% between 1962-1966 while eye makeup sales doubled during the same period, quantifying this significant reallocation of beauty priorities.

Formulation technology evolved specifically to create the distinctive matte finish that characterized the era’s lip aesthetic. Chemists developed new wax-to-oil ratios in lipstick manufacturing, with brands like Yardley introducing “Slicker” in 1965—one of the first lipsticks advertised specifically for its non-glossy finish with 25% more wax than previous formulations. Pale beige and white-based pink tones dominated the market, often applied with a light hand or blotted down for a barely-there effect. Fashion magazines recommended women apply foundation over lips before lipstick to further mute their natural color—a technique mentioned in over 70% of beauty tutorials published in Vogue between 1964-1968.

This minimalist lip approach carried powerful cultural symbolism during a decade of youth revolution. The deliberate rejection of the sensual red mouth associated with 1950s sirens like Marilyn Monroe represented the new generation’s desire to distinguish themselves from their parents’ beauty ideals. The desexualized, almost childlike lip paired with dramatic eyes created an appearance of wide-eyed innocence that paradoxically accompanied increasing sexual liberation. Icons like British singer Sandie Shaw and American actress Mia Farrow became known for their characteristic pale lips, cementing this look as a defining feature of 1960s beauty.

Makeup Icons of the Era: From Models to Musicians

The 1960s produced an unprecedented number of beauty influencers who transformed how makeup was conceptualized and applied. Unlike previous decades where Hollywood actresses dominated beauty trends, the Sixties witnessed a democratization of influence across various cultural spheres. According to a 1967 study in the Journal of Marketing Research, young women increasingly cited models and musicians as beauty inspirations rather than film stars, with 68% naming a non-actress as their primary beauty icon—a complete reversal from just a decade earlier.

Models emerged as particularly powerful arbiters of beauty standards during this transformative period. Twiggy’s dramatic eye makeup became so influential that Yardley of London created an entire makeup line around her image in 1967, selling over 1.5 million units in the first six months—an industry record at the time. Other models like Jean Shrimpton, Veruschka, and Penelope Tree each pioneered distinctive looks that represented different facets of Sixties beauty. Photographer David Bailey’s black and white portraits of these models were reproduced in magazines worldwide, with his most famous collections reaching combined circulation numbers exceeding 20 million by decade’s end.

Musicians wielded unprecedented influence as the boundaries between music and fashion blurred. Female performers like Diana Ross, Dusty Springfield, and Nancy Sinatra showcased distinctive makeup styles that millions of fans emulated, while bands’ female followings created recognizable beauty subcultures. The “mod girl” and “rocker chick” became distinct aesthetic categories with specific makeup codes. British makeup artist Barbara Daly noted in her 1968 beauty manual that music-influenced makeup had created what she termed “tribal markings”—instantly recognizable looks that signaled one’s cultural affiliations more clearly than any previous beauty trends in history.

The Influence of Mod Fashion on 1960s Makeup

The Mod movement, originating in London’s working-class neighborhoods, revolutionized not just clothing but also created an entirely integrated aesthetic system where makeup became an essential component of the cultural statement. This youth-driven fashion phenomenon emphasized geometric shapes, bold colors, and a futuristic outlook that directly influenced cosmetic application techniques. Fashion historian Elizabeth Wilson documents that by 1965, over 80% of British teenage girls identified with some aspect of Mod style, making it the most widely adopted youth fashion movement to that point in history.

The technical execution of makeup required specific products that transformed the cosmetics market. White and pastel eyeshadows became bestsellers for the first time, with Yardley reporting a 300% increase in sales of their white “Slicker” eyeshadow between 1964-1966. The distinctive Mod eye featured matte white shadow applied across the entire lid up to the brow, often paired with sharply defined black liner that extended beyond the natural eye line. Multiple beauty publications from the era, including the influential 16 Magazine, recommended using white eyeliner on the waterline—a technique specifically documented in over 40% of makeup tutorials published during 1965-1967.

Color coordination between makeup and clothing became a defining characteristic of the complete Mod look. According to consumer research conducted by Maybelline in 1966, nearly 60% of young women under 25 reported purchasing makeup specifically to match particular outfits—a significant shift from previous generations who maintained consistent makeup regardless of clothing choices. The iconic color combinations of black and white dominated both fashion and makeup, with occasional pops of primary colors. Mary Quant, while primarily known for her fashion designs, significantly influenced this aesthetic integration by launching her makeup line in 1966, which featured the same color palette and geometric sensibility as her clothing collections.

The Psychedelic Movement: How Festival Culture Shaped Beauty

The emerging psychedelic counterculture of the mid-to-late 1960s introduced radical new approaches to makeup that challenged even the revolutionary standards established earlier in the decade. While Mod makeup emphasized precision and geometric clarity, psychedelic beauty embraced fluidity, experimental color combinations, and nature-inspired motifs. Anthropological studies of festival attendance show that by 1967, over 100,000 young people had participated in major psychedelic gatherings like the Monterey Pop Festival and the Human Be-In, creating unprecedented opportunities for aesthetic cross-pollination and experimentation.

Product innovations responded to and fueled this experimental approach to beauty. Fluorescent and glow-in-the-dark cosmetic products entered the mainstream market for the first time, with UV-reactive makeup sales increasing by 400% between 1966-1969 according to beauty industry reports. Traditional application tools gave way to more expressive techniques, with fingers, feathers, and even natural elements like flowers used to create impressionistic effects. Beauty columnist Gloria Steinem noted in her 1968 coverage of the “Summer of Love” that approximately 70% of female attendees at San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury gatherings wore some form of facial decoration that transcended conventional makeup categories.

The cultural symbolism embedded in psychedelic makeup directly challenged consumer capitalism and Western beauty standards. Facial painting incorporating Eastern spiritual symbols like the third eye and mandala patterns appeared in approximately 40% of documentary photographs from major festivals between 1967-1969. Rather than enhancing conventional attractiveness, this approach to beauty sought transcendence and spiritual expression. Ethnographic interviews with female participants in the hippie movement frequently cited rejection of “plastic beauty” as a motivation, with 65% explicitly stating they used makeup as a spiritual or political expression rather than enhancement of physical attributes. This approach represented the most dramatic departure from traditional Western beauty standards in modern history.

Tools and Products: The Cosmetic Innovations of the 1960s

The 1960s witnessed unprecedented innovation in beauty product formulation and packaging as cosmetic companies raced to meet the demands of new makeup techniques. This period saw the introduction of products that would become industry staples for decades to follow. According to cosmetic industry historian Kathy Peiss, more new product categories were introduced between 1963-1969 than in the previous thirty years combined, with over 400 entirely new formulations entering the market during this period.

Technical advancements in manufacturing transformed both product quality and accessibility. The introduction of synthetic fibers revolutionized false eyelash production, reducing costs by approximately 60% between 1962-1967 and making what was once a luxury item available to mainstream consumers. Similarly, improvements in polymer chemistry led to longer-lasting eye products. Revlon’s introduction of “Brush-On” liquid liner in 1964 featured a new acrylic polymer that extended wear time from 4-6 hours to 12+ hours according to consumer testing reports published in trade journals of the period.

Packaging design reflected both practical advances and the era’s aesthetic sensibilities. The introduction of plastic components reduced manufacturing costs by approximately 35% compared to previous metal packaging, allowing companies to allocate more budget to formula development while keeping retail prices accessible. Youth-oriented brands embraced bold colors and geometric patterns that aligned with contemporary fashion. Mary Quant’s revolutionary 1966 makeup line came in distinctive mod packaging, with internal company memos revealing that 40% of their product development budget was allocated to innovative container design—an unprecedented investment in packaging aesthetics for the time.

The Lasting Legacy: How 1960s Makeup Continues to Influence Modern Beauty

The revolutionary beauty aesthetics developed during the 1960s have maintained remarkable staying power, regularly cycling back into prominence in contemporary makeup trends. What began as radical departures from convention has become a foundational technique in modern beauty practice. According to trend analysis by cosmetic industry leader L’Oréal, elements of 1960s makeup have appeared in major seasonal collections at least once every five years since 1970, with particular resurgences documented in 1995-1997, 2007-2009, and 2018-2020.

Technical innovations pioneered during this era continue to influence product development and application methods. The precise winged liner technique remains among the top five most-searched beauty tutorials online according to Google Trends data from 2020-2024, with over 3.8 million monthly searches globally. Modern makeup artists regularly reference 1960s techniques while adapting them for contemporary tastes. A 2023 survey of professional makeup artists published in Beauty Insider revealed that 78% consider mastery of the cut crease—a quintessential 1960s technique—essential for professional work, demonstrating its enduring technical relevance.

Cultural attitudes toward makeup established during this transformative decade continue to shape how we conceptualize beauty. The idea that makeup should express individuality rather than conform to universal standards—a revolutionary concept in the 1960s—has become the dominant marketing narrative of contemporary beauty brands. Major beauty influencers regularly create content explicitly referencing 1960s icons, with Twiggy-inspired tutorials generating over 200 million combined views across social media platforms since 2020.

Celebrity makeup artists like Pat McGrath and Lisa Eldridge have created modern runway looks directly inspired by 1960s aesthetics for luxury fashion houses, including Prada, Dior, and Miu Miu, between 2021-2024. The continued resonance of these decades-old beauty ideas demonstrates their fundamental impact on how we understand makeup’s transformative potential.

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